Why we do not publish a price list
Two wardrobes of identical width can differ in cost by a wide margin, because the width is only one of several variables. A plain painted run behind hinged doors and a veneered, lit, fully drawered run in the same space are different pieces of furniture. Any figure given before a survey would either be padded to cover unknowns or would change once the room was measured.
What we can do is explain how the price is built, so that when you see a quotation you understand which lines matter and which choices you could change.
Size and the number of carcasses
The number of individual cabinets is the base of any wardrobe cost. A taller room may mean a second tier of top boxes or a single tall carcass, and a long wall may be split into several sections so they can be carried up a stair and through a door. More sections means more material, more joints and more fitting time.
Height matters as much as width. Taking the wardrobe to the ceiling adds useful storage, but it also adds material and a scribed top frieze. In most London homes the extra space justifies it, though for a guest room a lower run may be the better value.
Doors: the single biggest variable
Doors are what you see, so they carry much of the cost. Flat painted doors are the most economical. Framed or panelled doors take more making. Veneered doors need leaves matched across the full run so the grain flows, and glazed doors in slim frames bring glass, framing and more exacting installation.
Sliding doors bring a track system and need very accurate setting out, while hinged doors need quality hinges and careful alignment. Neither is automatically cheaper; it depends on the size and the finish.
- Painted flat or Shaker-style fronts
- Veneered doors in oak or walnut
- Fluted or reeded timber fronts
- Glazed doors with aluminium or timber frames
Interiors: where value is gained or lost
Hanging rails and fixed shelves are simple. Every drawer, pull-out trouser rail, shoe shelf or jewellery tray adds components and hardware. It is easy to over-specify here: a wardrobe packed with drawers can cost a good deal more and actually hold less hanging than you need.
We suggest spending on the interiors you will use daily, such as a well-placed drawer stack and good lighting, and keeping rarely-used areas simple. Internal lighting needs wiring planned early, which is cheaper to design in than to add later.
The room itself
Out-of-true walls, sloping ceilings, chimney breasts, windows and radiators all affect cost because they add drawing and fitting work. A perfectly square new-build room is quicker to fit than a Georgian bedroom with a leaning wall and deep cornice. Matching period mouldings adds making time too.
Access plays a part. A top-floor flat with a narrow stair may need smaller sections, and parking and loading arrangements in central London can affect how long installation takes.
Getting an accurate figure
The quickest route to a firm price is a survey and a clear brief. Tell us the room, what you store, the style you prefer and whether there are any fixed constraints. From there we can prepare drawings and a quotation that lists what is included, so you can compare it fairly and decide where to adjust.
Frequently asked questions
- Are sliding doors cheaper than hinged?
- Not necessarily. The track and accurate setting out add cost, while hinged doors need more hinges. The finish and size usually matter more than the opening type.
- Does going to the ceiling cost much more?
- It adds material and a scribed top panel, but it also adds a good amount of storage, which often makes it the better value.
- Can I phase the interior fit-out?
- Sometimes. Carcasses can be drilled for later additions, although it is usually more efficient to fit everything at once.
Planning a project like this?
SH Joinery surveys every room before quoting, so you get a fixed price against a written specification rather than an estimate. Send us your drawings, photographs or rough sizes and we will come back with an honest view of what your project involves.